Homestyle Shanghainese havens like Chun are an endangered species in a city where the standard for Shanghai restaurants has become bloated palaces serving personality-less fare. Chun is all about personality. You see it in the four homey tables and the maitre-d Lan-Lan who’s equal parts nurturing grandmother and drill sarge: simultaneously pampering you and shooing you out the door because other guests are coming. It’s an attitude that tells you the food’s going to be great. There are too many tasty dishes to choose from, but we like the braised pomfret (红烧鲳鱼, hóngshāo chāng yú).
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