Back home tofu was the preserve of vegetarians and vegans, a strangely textured lump of blandness that you wouldn’t even entertain putting in your mouth. But here… Well, let’s just say things are different. Walk down a busy side street in China and you’ll quickly discover that tofu – from street stands hawking overpowering stinky stuff to the myriad of vacuum packed varieties available in convenient stores – is a veritable icon of Chinese cuisine, a deity of daily life.