We hesitate to use the word “yummy” to describe food, but it seems as if one of Taikoo Li’s latest rooftop additions is asking for it. 烤肉回廊, or Yummy Kiss, is part Korean barbecue, part Japanese yakitori and in some respects it does live up to its name, mostly thanks to its yummy braised beef tongue slathered in soy sauce and a clever – if a little outlandish – yummy crab claw croquette. The nuggets of sweet crab buried in a fried blanket of mashed potato, accompanied by zingy mayo dip, have us hooked.

Medium quality cuts of meat on the in-table grill, a slapdash mix of menu items, and a handful of mediocre dishes paired with gaudy presentation all suggest YK might be an average barbecue joint in a fancy disguise. The Oscar Diggs of barbecue joints will set you back about RMB 100 per person, an amount that might be better spent in a more authentic, frill-free Wangjing spot.

Should you crave tempura, yakitori and Korean-style grills, it’s best to bring along friends and order the assorted yakiniku platter (RMB 218). For the single diner, beef and eel over rice and a selection of spicy Korean soups are on offer, and for the brave, there’s the long, stone appetizer tray sporting a graveyard of squid legs and a scattering of chilies and spring onion.

Yummy Kiss
Daily 11am-11pm. S10-30, 3/F, Taikoo Li Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6416 6757)

Photo: Joey Guo

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