There's a lot going on in a bowl of Ding Te Le's là ròu xuě cài miàn. The standard cloudy pork broth is jolted to life with chili oil, preserved mustard greens bob at the top like savory lily pads, and they've thrown in some Chinese cabbage leaves for crunch. Once you're done skimming all that off the surface, trawl the bottom of the bowl with your chopsticks to rouse tender slices of pork to the top. As always, the noodles are perfect; the right balance of soft and elastic, so they don't break off when pinched with chopsticks - unlike a lot of the "silly string" varieties we see about town.
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