A versatile talent, Taiwan-born Karen Chen has helmed a diverse array of restaurants from Shanghai mainstay, Jian Guo 328 to new wave Sichuan joint Yi Zhang Hong, and now, Japanese grilled-eel joint Unagi, which is her best venture yet. This isn’t a foray into a new genre, it’s a conquest. Unagi’s namesake is one of the best pieces of eel (hell, fish) you’ll find in Shanghai.