Yes, it looks like something that washed up on the beach, but fish nestled in a bed of caramelized spring onions is one of our favorite things about Shanghai. Famous renditions include Jesse’s cod head, Dianshi Zhai Small Feast’s sweet, crispy Crucial, and yellow croaker (竹网葱香小鱼, zhuwang cong xiang xiao yu, 58RMB for five fish) at Jian Guo 328, a Shanghainese mainstay.