River snail season is here, hence why bins of mottled gray-green periwinkles are starting to dot every food street! These dwarf escargot (青壳螺蛳, qīng ké luó si) populate the waterways of Zhejiang and Jiangsu, with the most sparkling specimens hailing from Zhujiajiao water town. If you don’t want to travel an hour out of Shanghai, we recommend Hao You, arguably the city’s most authentic spot for Jiangsu country fare.