The arrival of Katchup to Gulou means more burgers, and while in this Beijing heyday of beef and buns there runs the risk of redundancy, we found little reason for complaint with this newest contender. The mind behind the menu is the same of the original Burger Counter, and you will recognize hints of this.

The front window of the restaurant announces soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers and steaks. Options are largely straightforward with the occasional surprise. A bowl of the garden basil pesto soup (RMB 20) turns out to be deceptively named. Where the curious image of sunbathed herb gardens dappled with pine nuts was conjured, instead is a classic tomato-based vegetable soup with rounds of green beans, triangles of carrot and echoes of minestrone.

The grilled veggie sandwich (RMB 48) bleeds mushroom, zucchini, and summer squash with drippings of Swiss cheese. A rarity to Beijing, the Reuben sandwich (RMB 58), is also deserving of attention.

The burger selection (RMB 48-68) hits all the standards with a few moments of excess, namely “the Manhattan monster” (RMB 68), packed with egg on chili on cheddar on onion ring teetering atop the patty, and “the atomic” (RMB 58), a burger with spicy buffalo sauce, a jalapeno-ranch dressing and fried onions. The trinity of bacon, blue cheese and beef finds representation in “the big bleu” (RMB 58) draped in caramelized shallots and showered with flakes of fried onions. Accompanying fries would do well with a generous dusting of salt and seasonings, though they are thick-cut and crisp.

Also try: Let’s Burger, Burger Counter

Tue-Sun 11am-10.30pm. 53-1 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District (8403 5772)
650m northeast of Nanluogu Xiang station (Line 6)

A version of this article appears in the March 2014 issue of the Beijinger:

Photos: Mitchell Pe Masilun

Visit the original source and full text: the Beijinger Blog