Japanese food seems to adapt particularly well to fusion cuisine, or at least it does if the rash of restaurants around town serving menus that draw on both Japanese and Western influences are anything to go by. Fusion surfaces briefly on the menu at the Xinyuan Xili location of O-Taku Sake Ba in the sashimi salads, huge rectangular platters of lettuce draped with translucent slices of assorted fish, topped with a tangy ginger-infused dressing.

Those that prefer their raw fish presented traditionally will find much to enjoy in the sashimi platters (from RMB 180). The cuts are perhaps not as delicate as we have had elsewhere around town, but the fish is fresh, imported from Japan and, in the case of the salmon, Norway. The same fish makes an appearance in the nigiri sushi, which is served playfully, if slightly morbidly, with a decorative prawn head.

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Raw fish may be an excellent measure of a Japanese restaurant, but it is actually in the simpler, homestyle dishes that O-Taku shows its mettle. A snow white mound of homemade tofu (RMB 40) comes delicately displayed on a wooden board complete with little pots of seasonings such as sesame and bonito so you can adjust the flavor yourself. A piping hot plate of chicken karaage (fried chicken to you and me) boasts a perfect balance of crisp batter to succulent thigh meat.

Of course, if you’re ordering fried chicken, you’re going to need a beer. The drinks menu boasts a wide selection of sake and imported beers, many of which were unfortunately not available on our visit. But no matter. The food goes down just as easily with a frosty RMB 20 pint of Asahi as it does with a wheaty Belgian number. Gather a few friends, order a few rounds and settle in to O-Taku Sake Bar for an evening of comfortably familiar Japanese food. 

O-Taku Sake Ba
Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-11pm. 1/F, Bldg 12, Xinyuan Xili Community, Chaoyang District. (8400 4388)
大德酒场：朝阳区新源西里小区内12号楼1层

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Photos: Mitchell Pe Masilun